Chicken with leeks and lemons. Brillat-Savarin once said, “ Poultry is for the cook what canvas is for the painter.” I genuinely believe I have made more chicken recipes than other meats.

A lawyer and politician, Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin was born in France in the 18th century and while he indeed practised law and entered the slippery fray of politics, he is perhaps best ...